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vendredi 28 février 2014

The Paris point // Paris Fashion Week

Going back in France on the 5th of March.
Paris Fashion Week ends on 5th. Damn.

But still, we cannot miss this fashion week, full of the most beautiful shows and designers of the world. I have to take a look to Instagram, Style.com and being in touch with what's happening in my city...
Let's make a point, after 3 days.


Let's begin with
Anthony Vaccarello
Oh god, is there something in this world sexier than what Anthony Vaccarello creates for women?
I mean, the dresses. And also the aviator coats ( I already feel that military inspired and shearling coats will be THE coats next winter).
Black. Black. Black. Grey, and some red. That's all. Oh, and also, transparency. And Anja Rubik closing the show "don't fear the nipple!"


Carven
Whether very short bottoms with very thigh-high boots, whether very long coat or skirt. I loved the prints, that make me think of Matisse. I love the colors too, and the small details (or total look for certain silhouettes) of leopard. True to Carven spirit, which for sure will influence a lot the high street shops next autumn. The entire show has this structure, a red line and a coherence between outfits.

Balenciaga

After having cried when I learnt the leaving of Nicolas Ghesquière (That I wait around the corner for the next Louis Vuitton's show! Can't wait), I was a bit disappointed by Alexander Wang's performance the last season.

But I have to admit that I really like this one. This season I feel like Wang is more at ease with Balenciaga.
And the closing with Gisele...!
The only thing I could blame for is that I have the impression that many elements(shoulders' shape, colors) are similar to Alexander Wang's own collection he presented in NYC two weeks ago.
But still, nice job.

Dries Van Noten

My dear Dries. He handles the art of prints like nobody else. Everybody remembers the last season striped print, that inspired so many high streets brands (Am I wrong Zara?)

Here, Dries brings happy tropical to a winter collection.
Be ready to see inspired prints in every stores next fall...

Christophe Lemaire
I loved Christophe Lemaire. A nude palette, cosy, comfy coats and wool mixed to give birth to : elegance and minimalism.
There are also two shows where I liked some silhouettes.
Alexis Mabille had quite nice looks, but I could notice some things really similar to Saint-Laurent grunge collection of last year (hats, plaid shirts, black boots and lace)
And Balmain was truly beautiful. I really liked the details and the very worked clothes. But some silhouettes were really "too much" for me. These are the silhouettes I liked. (With a little upside/down. Oops. Sorry guys)


And.

Barbara Bui

Barbara. I love you. I love you. From the beginning of the show, with soft white and cream silhouettes.
To your specialty : leather, black, sexiness at its climax.
All the models I love in one show. Everything I love for winter : My schizophrenic love for on the one hand a very clear and white angelic look, and on the other hand the total black look with leather.
And my unconditional love for fur (fake. I don't know if this one is real one).
She just added the perfect detail to the white looks : a beautiful Boa snake pattern. Love it (over leopard).



H&M Studio

I will end this article with the little outsider of the fashion week. After Etam, H&M presented its studio collection. I say outsider because not part of the official agenda of fashion week... But still H&M just casted the top-top-top models, and had a front row full of "verrrrryimportantfashiOnpeople".

I was pretty (in a positive way) surprised. I mean it was really wearable, which is the goal of H&M -dressing the people. But still, there was design. There was fashion. I loved the coats(all of them. gonna be hard to choose on the next September). I loved the khaki palette.
I loved the subtle transparency of clothes.
Though, I am not a big fan of red leather.

I am happy that Fashion Week changes with its time. 
I mean, there are quite a lot of debates on the web about how fashion world/fashion weeks have changed with the social media, the pursuit of being street styled in front of every show, the loss of privileges of the fashion elite, basically, the mass democratization of what was the private and intimate world of fashion.
Garance Doré spoke about that and the evolution of the fashion industry(entertainment?) through her different fashion weeks from 2008 until now (in this post) and I have no need to speak about "The circus of fashion" article by Suzy Menkes that made quite a buzz.

And now, Topshop has its own show at London Fashion week besides Burberry, Etam and H&M has their shows in Paris besides Dior and Chanel.
Yes Suzy, at your question "If fashion is for everyone, is it fashion?", I will answer YES.
Yes teens who are 14 appropriate themselves the elite's private world with Instagram and Twitter, yes Style.com provides me all the pictures of all the shows that invited only the important people.

Don't you think it is better that H&M has its own show, tries to create something ( I don't say they are the new best designers of all time from an artistic point of view, I don't have the skills for), than they wait until the end of Fashion Week to send everything to their design head offices to copy everything as soon as possible? By having a show, H&M has the responsibility to present something (at least a bit) unique.

H&M brings runway to the people, and I think they do pretty good.

 


By the way, I have been a bit disappointed by Jacquemus show...
We lost something. I loved when Jacquemus made his shows in original places such as a pool or a video-games room. It was a bit "normal" this time... And I didn't see something new in his collection. This is normal that a designer follows a red line, but the collection didn't bring something more to the past collections, in my opinion.


See you for another post about the best Fashion Week (yes this season I really think Paris is the best), Paris!

And what is your opinion about H&M studio show? And the evolution of fashion weeks?

mercredi 26 février 2014

New in // Bright, white and pale envy

It was a long time I was thinking to get a pair of white jeans... It is always hard because it can be quickly ugly. H&M provided me the perfect ripped one, with gold zippers at the ankles. And I also acquired the ultra-simple and so useful perfect light grey sweater.
Seems like I turn to be more in a bright/white mood than my always-total-black look.
I love to pair it with pale/nude or grey nails.



lundi 24 février 2014

WANTED : Garance Doré launches her brand

Haaaa Garance... Everybody knows how much I love her blog, the posts, the aesthetic, the pictures...
There is nothing to say : my favorite fashion (and lifestyle? This is not only about fashion actually... so many posts about just being a modern girl's problems haha) blog.

And do I learn today on THIS post ?
She launches her collection of notebooks,  iPhone cases, prints and other stationery products in March.

As I told, I just love Garance's illustrations and aesthetic.


She is going to present her line in the Parisian concept store Colette on the 1st of March. So sad I will be in France only since the 5th (I know it's gonna be sold out). Yes I am in love with the iPhone cases.

Who can go on a mission for me at Colette next saturday french folks ? Ah ah.

Can't wait to see the whole collection on the e-boutique.







A full week of OOTD on www.the-rd.com / Recap

As I told you previously, during the Copenhagen Fashion Week I met the two founders of the blog The Road at the Danish Blogger Awards : Bettina & Anja, who by the way won an award.

The Road is a street style blog, gathering pictures of Copenhageners' lifestyle.
During the ceremony Bettina took me in picture (see the post here), and proposed me to make what they call " The Weekly Inspirational Style".
The principle is simple : during a whole week, I provide a simple picture of my OOTD ( outfit of the day).
You can find this weekly inspirational style on this link.

Here is the small recap of my week on The Road.
It was a pleasure and an honor to be featured on this Danish blog.
Thank you The Road!


dimanche 23 février 2014

samedi 22 février 2014

Copenhagen Fashion Week : My recap

This post could begin by "By way of conclusion..."



This is my recap.
How I lived this first Copenhagen Fashion Week, completely immersed in my passion during 4 days in a row.

I began by being behind the shows, working as a dresser. Seeing naked models running everywhere looking for their next look, watching the whole make-up and hair process, how the designer acts the minutes before presenting quickly all the work he has done the months before. Watching how a designer chooses between models, the faces and the walk he wants to represent his silhouettes.

And then, I was the one who seats just to see the result, which lasts 10 minutes.
Running in the snow between every show, by a awful weather, but you just don't care because you love what you're doing right now.

I learned a lot.
I have seen and discovered a lot.
I have seen a total different way to perceive fashion and ready-to-wear than the classic New-York/London/Milan/Paris one. I have lived a different atmosphere, open, more welcoming, fun. I have met people who are interested in you and want to hear who you are.

I will close this "Copenhagen Fashion Week serie"by quoting some articles I found on the internet right after the week.

Copenhagen: Probably the most refreshing fashion week in the worldScandinavian style is finally making editors and buyers sit up and take note.
Even if the CPH fashion week is established since 1968, this fashion week has been very lately noticed by editors, buyers and foreign customers.
Now I think it is their time : even if its impact on the luxury market was not the same at all compared to other industries, the financial crisis has changed the consumer's behavior. People focused again on simple things(not only in fashion I mean, you also see this trend around the pleasure to cook and eat with all this #foodporn on Instagram and these TV shows), on basics they trust to be long-lasting and timeless. Extravagance is not the point anymore. People are more down-to-earth.
And if Scandinavian fashion could have been criticized in the past for its ultra-simplicity, its minimalist aesthetic and its laid-back approach, it is now what people are looking for. Comfort, security.

"Unlike other fashion weeks, what you see at Copenhagen is what you get. They do not bother with elaborate, and often wildly expensive "show pieces" that have no intention of making it on to the shop floors, unlike the majority of European designers. Instead, everything that walks down the runway will be available to buy. How refreshingly straightforward.""Danish design is "about real clothes for real people" says Olsen, and the world's buyers are beginning to sit up and take note. You don't have to be pencil thin to wear pieces from the runway in Copenhagen; they won't break the bank either. Designs from the runway are - dare I say it - functional, and relevant to the everyday woman. "
Source : BY SOPHIE WARBURTON, The fashion telegraph, link here




And now, let's just read a fabulous woman's vision : Didder Rønlund.
This 88-year-old lady, old friend of Coco Chanel is a reporter for CPH Fashion Week and has been attending fashion shows for 60 years.

This is her recap of Copenhagen Fashion Week, available on the official website of the event.
What does she say about this AW 2014/2015 Fashion week?
Danish Fashion for billions
"It's not even wishful thinking – Danish fashion sells for DKK 32,000,000,000 globally. Impressively, this puts the fashion industry at fourth place on the list of top national exports. Excluding furs but, with respect, including the subsidiary of Danish Fashion Institute, Copenhagen Fashion Week."
Didder Rønlund also highlights the danish focus on ecology, even in the fashion industry. This fashion week is the occasion to reming the green fashion summits that take place in Copenhagen, willing to make this industry sustainable.
Crown Princess Mary also works with the Danish Mayor of Health Ninna Thomsen to develop a healthcare offer for all young models and protect them. 
I really can ensure you that the standards I saw at CPH Fashion Week for models were not the same that the ones I see in magazines and other fashion weeks. YES, models are skinny, but they look healthy.

Didder Rønlund also speaks about this energy you could feel in this city, even under a snowstorm, all the events you had in shops, in the streets, parties... You had a total programme for what is named " Copenhagen Fashion Week festival", that opens the fashion circuit to everybody and allow any people to enjoy the fashion atmosphere.

Source: here

After this long week, we deserved to celebrate. I did with the fabulous girls from the agency Gallery I met for my volunteering in backstage as a dresser, and who work all the week at Børsen for organizing shows but also at the Gallery trade fair.
After a fabulous dinner, we stayed a bit at the official closing party of the Fashion Week, but quickly moved to Sunday club which hosted a party for Unique models agency.
A great night to end this intense week.









By the way, I would like to thank you on this post. All the great girls I met during this fashion week, who allowed me to see so many shows. Emina, Lina, Camilla, Karolina and all the people from Gallery.
Thank you for having made me discovering your fashion week, and have a great time in Paris to enjoy my home country's fashion week...


And long live the Danish fashion!

vendredi 21 février 2014

Copenhagen Fashion Week // Day 4

Here we are : my last day of shows at CPH Fashion Week.
Last but not least : I had 5 shows this day.
* Bibi Chemnitz
* Maikel Tawadros
* Bettina Bakdal
* 2OR+BYYAT
* Ayni CPH

Bibi Chemnitz
Bibi Chemnitz is a brand founded by the eponymous Danish designer in 2006. The brand is known to be dark, oversized, very street influenced and for a look often unisex. The brand designs silhouettes for men & women.
I really liked this show. It was graphic, urban and modern with functional hooded sweats, puff jackets, caps, padded nylon fabrics. The collection is really young, with the logo of the brand everywhere : on roll-necks, sweaters, sleeves.
 The designer knew how to balance urban and streetswear and feminity : even if girls were wearing caps, big sweatshirt or beanie, the bottoms were girly skater skirts with heels. I love this mix. When a silhouette is too feminine, the designer contrasts it by loose and nonchalant details such as wearing your sweat around your hips.
 I also liked the color palette of the show : on a black & white base, you could find some orange, light green and lavender. As you can see on the video I enjoyed a really nice front row seat for this show...





Source: Pictures from the official Copenhagen Fashion Week website


 Some backstage pictures.

The logo beanies and hats.


Do you recognize this model? He walks a lot for men fashion week in Paris (Kenzo, Dries Van Noten,Lanvin). He is adorable and have a very strong presence when he walks. It is Martin Lekic.`



Between two shows, a small treat... I went to the Tresemmé blow out bar, where you can get your hair done for free... So some curls for the day!

Oh... And did I show you the tough weather we had for the fashion week? Snow storm! Fashionistas could forget high heels...


Maikel Tawadros

After Bibi Chemnitz, it was the turn of Maikel Tawadros. I heard about him at the beginning of the week, as a new designer (he worked for many danish designers but began his own line in 2012) and for who it was his first show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. I was quite curious to discover him. Moreover the description I read about him inspired me. 
"Dark and gloomy, asymmetrical elegance combined with sharp,Scandinavian minimalism."
 "The color palette of his collections is minimal andconsists primarily of black in several shades,which is used in order to create the feeling of asharp, natural and non-forced look." 
Source : Copenhagen Fashion Week Official Website
What I liked in his collection? That I could imagine myself wearing his creations without any problem. If the make-up was futuristic, the silhouettes were functional, wearable, without letting down feminity, design and elegance through the use of beautiful garments such as wool, leather (totally loved the leather pants), silk coupled to details of fur and feathers and to the overall very feminine asymmetry.
I also loved the green print.
Models were wearing flat black boots above mid-calf socks. Pointless to say again I love simple black boots.
Hard to choose between the looks to show you. I really liked the whole collection.
I went to backstage to personally congratulate him, he was so happy and nervous for his first show. Wishing him all the best, congrats Maikel for your first show.




 Source: Pictures from the official Copenhagen Fashion Week website


And I cannot complain for how I have been welcomed...


Then, let's go to the Old Stock Exchange for three other shows...

Bettina Bakdal
"An AW2014 collection that is deeply rooted in her personal style , a mix between a classic look , graphic codes and elegant play with sculptural silhouettes.Finish is high quality. The focus is on longevity ,and the design is classical, but with the avant-garde twist, that characterizes a Bettina Bakdal collection." Source : Copenhagen Fashion Week official website
What was this avant-garde twist? 
A collection based on a total color block look, from head to toe, including the tights and the boyish derbies. And all these color blocks silhouettes build, once together, the winter 2014 palette according to Bettina Bakdal. A very slow walk, masculine silhouettes with oversized coats and pants, flat derbies, pronounced shoulders, or very long skirts, designed in colors going from black then grey, purple, burgundy,  pink, yellow, orange and brown.

At the final, on my instagram video, you totally catch the color palette and the color block meaning.






 Source : Copenhagen Fashion Week official website


2OR + BYYAT

"Unconventional, dynamic & poetic fashion for women". To be honest, the Finnish brand designed by Yat was not my style at all. There were too many mixes of prints that look like inspired by tapestry, too many colors, too many textures... Something was missing : an harmony between the different designs. That is my opinion, but on the other hand we cannot tell this collection can be described as always as a scandinavian minimalist design! And you can notice a leather good line, with many bags the brand is famous for.









The last show was a show called in Born In Peru. It presented two designers influenced by peruvian origins : AYNI CPH and Escudo.


AYNI CPH
Traditional Peru mixed with Scandinavian edgy design? Can be interesting.
The show begins with models walking in the dark while a video appears on the screen.
And then, the real catwalk begins. You definitely see the peruvian influence with beautiful alpaca handknits, and the edgy Scandinavian style with leather bottoms (pants or skirts).
A really simple and wearable collection. Nothing particular, I must admit, appealed to me.

Just an issue... Since the beginning of the show, I was thinking that models had a weird way of walking... until I understood : one of the model simply put off the shoes and threw it away. Kinda fun to see two models deciding to walk bare foot. The kind of little things I love during a show! #shitmodelsgottadealwith !



 Taking off the pumps!


 Escudo

Chiara Macchiavello is the peruvian designer from Lima who launched the brand Escudo. It was the first time the designer presented her work at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

What is the motto of Escudo we wan read on the screen during the show?
"Devoted to design, committed to heritage".
And this motto makes sense after the show.
"The current collection likewise manifests Chiara’s dedication to incorporating elements of traditional folk culture into her modern fashion design. The collection marries the long-celebrated, traditional weaving and embroidery techniques of the Andes with the contemporary cuts and edgy innovations of modern haute couture that can be seen on runways of fashion-forward cities like Paris, London, Milan and Copenhagen." Source : Aracari
I really, really loved the collection. All the models were wearing white tennis shoes, letting all the space to the amazing outfits. Moreover I like this simplicity coupled to the short dresses. You can not imagine with the pictures, all the details, all the handmade work you could see on every piece of the collection. I have brought home the lookbook, that let me appreciate every silhouette of the collection. The materials were 100% peruvian pima cotton, alpaca, merino wool, hand knitted clothes.
The embroideries were amazing.
I had a crush on certain silhouettes, particularly the dresses.





  And this amazing final dress.
Source: Copenhagen Fashion Week official website




 Oh and I forgot to mention something nice with the fashion week... goodie bags.



So, what is your favorite? Let me know!


To be continued :
Copenhagen Fashion Week : Recap, thoughts and experience.