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mardi 4 février 2014

Copenhagen Fashion Week // Day 2

Wednesday, January the 29th

As I told in my previous post, I did fittings on monday for the show of A Friend By A.F. Vandevorst.

This label has really been one of my crushes of the week, thus it deserves a short introduction.
Source: Le Figaro
A.F. Vandevorst

A.F. Vandevorst is a Belgian label founded in 1998 by Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst.  They met at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1987. After graduating, An Vandevorst worked for Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten, just to remind you the incredible designers who come from Belgium.

This line is presented in Paris every season.

To give you an overview, this is a video of the show celebrating the fifteenth anniversary of the label, which took place in Paris.
This is the perfect video to show you the brand's spirit because for this anniversary:
 "An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx took a trip through their archives. "We found the pieces closest to our hearts and redid them in a fresh summer version," Vandevorst said backstage" (Source Style.Com)
Spring/Summer 2014 : Down Memory Lane
"A.F. Vandevorst and Felip Arickx celebrate 15 years of their label this season, so it was fitting that they dug into the archives to put together their SS14 collection.The key elements of the Belgian brand were all there: the perfect leather jacket, the black gauzy layering, the clever tailoring. And they had been re-imagined as a fantasy wherein a girl had fallen asleep in the sand, fully clothed, and had woken up looking beautiful."(Source Luisa Via Roma Youtube Channel)


 (Pictures from style.com)

 I can't be objective and letting you without giving my personal opinion : this is truly amazing.

Now that I have introduced you to the duo A.F. Vandevorst, I have to talk about the line for which I have been a dresser.
A Friend By A.F. Vandevorst is their complementary line, more affordable (to get and to wear).

It was the first time the duo presented this line with a show in Copenhagen.

First, some pictures of the backstage, before I show you the runway.
I had one model to dress, with two looks, Nicolina from Scoop models.


I have been amazed by the duo's professionalism. We did a complete rehearsal of the show with the models wearing the total look.



 I really liked the make-up. It was all about natural and very strong eyebrows completed with messy and natural curly hair.


 Just an overview of the looks.



Here you can see the boots used for the show. A.F. Vandevorst has its own line of shoes, military-inspired. I had a crush on these big leather boots declined in several heights, laced or not.
Even my model asked me at the end of the show : "Please, ask where I can find these shoes!!!" And then, I understood why you can read on an article on Business Of Fashion:
"The label’s shoes, which had garnered a loyal following since the company launched a full footwear collection in 2004, had become one of the driving pillars of the business and, today, accounts for about 40 percent of turnover." (source : Business Of Fashion)

 The show from my point-of-view...

 And then, some pictures of the runway I borrowed from the official website of Copenhagen Fashion Week, to give you a better look on this amazing collection.







 Source: Official CPHFW Website
(Could kill for the bomber on the last picture...)
 And just a picture of Filip Arickx and me after the show, to keep the memory.

What can I add? I truly had a crush on this collection. To be honest, I loved every look. The omnipresent black leather declined in skirt, pants, shoes, gloves. (Yes I love black) BUT, the collection also presented these beautiful colors through the prints you can see on many looks. I loved the mix between the perfect structure you can find in the shoes, the tailored blazers and black shirts, with the nonchalance of the loose silk shirts, the big knits and the beauty/hair look.
This is totally the type of looks I would like to wear next winter.

What a beautiful discovery. It was a great pleasure to take part to this show.

Dear A.F. Vandevorst, I really hope I could see your other collection in Paris next time...

Get more info about the brand on their website.


Veronica B. Vallenes

After the show, I stayed at the Old Stock Exchange. It was not planned, but I have been able to see Veronica B.Vallenes' show.
She is the winner of The Designtalent Of The Year at DANSK Fashion Award, Denmark and of Max Factor New Talent in 2011.
Curious to understand this fame, I stayed.
"The Copenhagen-based Norwegian designer Veronica B. Vallenes has established a distinct signature expression, situated somewhere between classic Nordic simplicity and glossy Parisian elegance. Her effortlessly sexy womenswear is fast gaining the eye of international press and costumers." (Source : Official Copenhagen Fashion Week Website)
And, surprise, I saw there Marie Hindkaer, the blogger of BlameItOnFashion I met the day before at Fashion Blogger Awards. It was fun to see her again just before the show. She was obviously on the front row with one of the best seat.
 Marie was wearing my current obsession in terms of earrings. Couldn't resist to ask her to take a picture.

After speaking about fashion, the week, the shows and all that stuff, the show had to begin...
This is why by chance I have been seated on the front row too. (Still don't know if it's related to the fact I was speaking since 15 minutes with Marie...Maybe.)







So, the show was what I expected. You could easily recognize the Scandinavian aesthetic and minimalism. The looks were beautiful. The description I put above is totally right. Colors palette was pure, with mostly black (with black leather), white, pale pink. But also a mix of orange and grey and a touch of burgundy. Shoes were pumps as on the pictures above, or white kitten heels. Just a few pattern, as the marble on the last dress.Beautiful coats.
Fans of minimalism, Céline, Chloé, Carven would be delighted. An aesthetic simplicity, that always works.

But that is what, on the other hand, I could blame. It was maybe too easy. It was of course beautiful, the type of looks you would buy right now for this season. But I think this is the issue : where is the novelty? Sometimes you must be a bit surprised by shows, that are supposed to bring something new that make you wonder "Should I wear this next season?", because this is the principle of innovation.

I saw too many looks where I could see a clear inspiration of other labels of past seasons, such as Carven ( the big pink coat), the marble pattern (Alexander Wang for Balenciaga), and the jewelry was so similar to Balenciaga's set of gold rings that everybody knows...(Jewelry was by Bjørg, click here to see a backstage picture)

Anyway, the show was very pleasant, with good looks as I told before(and I liked the music too). I let you watch the video, where you can see a French insider with her black hat on the left front row, trying to catch everything from the show ;)





To be continued...

Next post : Copenhagen fashion Week // Day 3.

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