vendredi 28 février 2014

The Paris point // Paris Fashion Week

Going back in France on the 5th of March.
Paris Fashion Week ends on 5th. Damn.

But still, we cannot miss this fashion week, full of the most beautiful shows and designers of the world. I have to take a look to Instagram, and being in touch with what's happening in my city...
Let's make a point, after 3 days.

Let's begin with
Anthony Vaccarello
Oh god, is there something in this world sexier than what Anthony Vaccarello creates for women?
I mean, the dresses. And also the aviator coats ( I already feel that military inspired and shearling coats will be THE coats next winter).
Black. Black. Black. Grey, and some red. That's all. Oh, and also, transparency. And Anja Rubik closing the show "don't fear the nipple!"

Whether very short bottoms with very thigh-high boots, whether very long coat or skirt. I loved the prints, that make me think of Matisse. I love the colors too, and the small details (or total look for certain silhouettes) of leopard. True to Carven spirit, which for sure will influence a lot the high street shops next autumn. The entire show has this structure, a red line and a coherence between outfits.


After having cried when I learnt the leaving of Nicolas Ghesquière (That I wait around the corner for the next Louis Vuitton's show! Can't wait), I was a bit disappointed by Alexander Wang's performance the last season.

But I have to admit that I really like this one. This season I feel like Wang is more at ease with Balenciaga.
And the closing with Gisele...!
The only thing I could blame for is that I have the impression that many elements(shoulders' shape, colors) are similar to Alexander Wang's own collection he presented in NYC two weeks ago.
But still, nice job.

Dries Van Noten

My dear Dries. He handles the art of prints like nobody else. Everybody remembers the last season striped print, that inspired so many high streets brands (Am I wrong Zara?)

Here, Dries brings happy tropical to a winter collection.
Be ready to see inspired prints in every stores next fall...

Christophe Lemaire
I loved Christophe Lemaire. A nude palette, cosy, comfy coats and wool mixed to give birth to : elegance and minimalism.
There are also two shows where I liked some silhouettes.
Alexis Mabille had quite nice looks, but I could notice some things really similar to Saint-Laurent grunge collection of last year (hats, plaid shirts, black boots and lace)
And Balmain was truly beautiful. I really liked the details and the very worked clothes. But some silhouettes were really "too much" for me. These are the silhouettes I liked. (With a little upside/down. Oops. Sorry guys)


Barbara Bui

Barbara. I love you. I love you. From the beginning of the show, with soft white and cream silhouettes.
To your specialty : leather, black, sexiness at its climax.
All the models I love in one show. Everything I love for winter : My schizophrenic love for on the one hand a very clear and white angelic look, and on the other hand the total black look with leather.
And my unconditional love for fur (fake. I don't know if this one is real one).
She just added the perfect detail to the white looks : a beautiful Boa snake pattern. Love it (over leopard).

H&M Studio

I will end this article with the little outsider of the fashion week. After Etam, H&M presented its studio collection. I say outsider because not part of the official agenda of fashion week... But still H&M just casted the top-top-top models, and had a front row full of "verrrrryimportantfashiOnpeople".

I was pretty (in a positive way) surprised. I mean it was really wearable, which is the goal of H&M -dressing the people. But still, there was design. There was fashion. I loved the coats(all of them. gonna be hard to choose on the next September). I loved the khaki palette.
I loved the subtle transparency of clothes.
Though, I am not a big fan of red leather.

I am happy that Fashion Week changes with its time. 
I mean, there are quite a lot of debates on the web about how fashion world/fashion weeks have changed with the social media, the pursuit of being street styled in front of every show, the loss of privileges of the fashion elite, basically, the mass democratization of what was the private and intimate world of fashion.
Garance Doré spoke about that and the evolution of the fashion industry(entertainment?) through her different fashion weeks from 2008 until now (in this post) and I have no need to speak about "The circus of fashion" article by Suzy Menkes that made quite a buzz.

And now, Topshop has its own show at London Fashion week besides Burberry, Etam and H&M has their shows in Paris besides Dior and Chanel.
Yes Suzy, at your question "If fashion is for everyone, is it fashion?", I will answer YES.
Yes teens who are 14 appropriate themselves the elite's private world with Instagram and Twitter, yes provides me all the pictures of all the shows that invited only the important people.

Don't you think it is better that H&M has its own show, tries to create something ( I don't say they are the new best designers of all time from an artistic point of view, I don't have the skills for), than they wait until the end of Fashion Week to send everything to their design head offices to copy everything as soon as possible? By having a show, H&M has the responsibility to present something (at least a bit) unique.

H&M brings runway to the people, and I think they do pretty good.


By the way, I have been a bit disappointed by Jacquemus show...
We lost something. I loved when Jacquemus made his shows in original places such as a pool or a video-games room. It was a bit "normal" this time... And I didn't see something new in his collection. This is normal that a designer follows a red line, but the collection didn't bring something more to the past collections, in my opinion.

See you for another post about the best Fashion Week (yes this season I really think Paris is the best), Paris!

And what is your opinion about H&M studio show? And the evolution of fashion weeks?

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