vendredi 14 mars 2014

Secrets from the backstage // The perfect nude make up

Until now we were looking at the looks seen during the fashion month.
In this post I want to make a close up on the make-up look... and especially a trend seen on many catwalks I love a lot : the nude make-up.

Stella McCartney

These times I really like a perfect glowy skin with very low make-up on the eyes or the lips. That is for me the perfect nonchalant look.

And I'd give you some secret advice from the backstage ;) I took it from

Isabel Marant
Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor's take:"She likes really good skin," said Lisa Butler of Isabel Marant's makeup vision. "That's where we've been spending our time—making sure it is absolutely flawless, but without looking really made up." After prepping complexions with Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability Intense Moisturizing Concentrate, Bobbi Brown full-coverage foundation was dabbed only where needed to ensure models' faces still had "dimension." Butler skipped contouring and mascara, but created a highlight on the eyes without piling on products. A "blob" of & Other Stories Face Contour Cream (a shimmery taupe shade) was applied to the inner and outer corners, then joined in the crease—leaving the center of the lid bare. A shadow in the same tone was dusted over the top to set. MAC Paint Pot in Antique Diamond was dotted along the bottom lashes with fingers for "twinkle." For brows that were "thick and bushy" without being "dark and heavy," Butler combed Anastasia Tinted Brow Gel in Auburn or Blonde through arches. Because the clothes were "quite strong and dark," a berry hue was rubbed into the middle of the lips to make models look "pretty, not harsh." "She's undone rather than overdone," Sam McKnight explained of the always chic Marant woman. It's a story we've heard before, but it never gets old. Show me a girl who doesn't want to be "natural, sexy, and French" and I'll show you a liar. 
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When you have models like Angela Lindvall, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Anja Rubik, Jourdan Dunn, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley all in one room, do you even need hair and makeup? Add a swipe of lipstick and the Hôtel de Ville might just spontaneously combust from the overwhelming amount of beauty. Nevertheless, a little foundation, concealer, and brow powder never hurt anyone. And that's about all maquillage master Tom Pecheux used backstage to create the "safari goddess" who would wear Olivier Rousteing's high-octane clothes through the jungle. The only alteration he made was paling out the skin with a lighter shade of base. "It's still the minimum of what you can do in terms of makeup, but it's much more than last season," Pecheux quipped.

Proenza Schouler
Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor's take:Diane Kendal provided a dewy sheen by applying moisturizer under and over any base products. The makeup pro then dabbed brown "grease" on the lids and lower lash lines before removing it with more moisturizer and a cotton swab, leaving behind a subtle residue. MAC Cremeblend Blush in Posey was tapped onto the apples of the cheeks, and lips were slicked with Siss (for girls with darker complexions) or toned down with foundation. Lashes were curled, but not coated with mascara—an aesthetic choice we've seen Kendal and other artists make multiple times this week. The reasoning: "Not doing mascara is more modern; as soon as you apply it, lashes look pedestrian." 
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Prabal Gurung

The secret tip: a bit of white liner in the waterline to highlight and bright-up eyes.

Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept with the spirit of the clothes by using MAC Cosmetics Face and Body foundation to even models' complexions, forgoing powder to create a dewy finish. Just the apples were flushed with a ruddy-colored cream blush, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate was dabbed along the tops of the cheekbones and across the center of the lids to highlight. Eye Kohl in Fascinating (a white pencil) was used on the lower waterlines to brighten, while Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut was used to contour the crease and hollows of the cheeks. Brows were brushed up, filled in with a corresponding shadow (like Omega, Bark, or Concrete), and set with wax for a "bushy" finish. To tone down any redness in the lips, Kendal applied a touch of foundation to models' mouths. 

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Source of the picture : Garance Doré 

What about you? Do you like the nude make-up, or do you think it is boring/useless? What are the things you cannot live without when talking about make-up?

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