So this time I'll try to be more "selective" even if it's hard, because there are a lot of things I like obviously... And at the same time I feel a subtle boredom. One show after another, many silhouettes present similarities or a detail that remind you of another designer, another season...
I am not speaking about copy, obviously. I just underline the industry's rhythm that maybe affect the creation time.
I was very interested by what Alexander Wang declared to Style.com after his show this week.
Wang had the courage to simply present an all-black collection. Even if does not deviate that much of his habits (we are not talking about an all-black Moschino collection...), it can be seen as a bit cheeky (what would Anna Winter say???) (just kidding).
Why? Because we are always talking about the 2000's customer, asking for novelty, extreme differentiation, customization era... and at the same time look at 80% of the populations' closet : the great majority is black. And Wang simply answered to that.
"Our customer wants black, so why not do an all-black collection?"It was risky as black is not very flattering on the runway neither on pictures. Wang played with textures in details. I don't say I am a fan of this collection, but I found there was something interesting.
Wang is one of the first designer that dared to tell he works with a more business-oriented vision than a artistic one, in order to be truly relevant in this industry.
Silhouettes I (really) liked.
Kanye West (as always) made the buzz presenting his Yeezy SEASON 1 (Kanye West x Adidas Orginals) and this collection will be one of the most divisive of the fashion week.
I will say the same thing that for Alexander Wang. It's not that I liked the collection. But I found something brilliant in it. I won't debate about the whole Kanye West thing (and never about Kardashian's constant blabla) but just about the things that interest me about the show itself.
Kanye West did not make walk his models. They were standing. A long time. People could observe conscientiously clothes. And believe me, it is sometimes really hard during a show to be able to notice every detail. Everything is going very fast.
Moreover, the thing that I found interesting in this idea to dress the models only with nude tights. Each model was presenting a specific item, and thus as a public, we were forced to focus only on this piece. One girl was totally dressed by tights (consequently we can say not dressed) and was just holding the bags. What happens? You look at the bag. Hiding the hair was also playing in favor of that process.
Besides my kinda "boredom" I was really, really (in a good way), really surprised by Derek Lam.
Even if we have to say...
These three last silhouettes remind a lot Céline's last collection
(here everybody understands why I really appreciated Derek Lam's show...cqfd)
In the same vein, I (of course, no surprise coming from me) loved Victoria Beckham yesterday. I love the fact she succeeds in keeping a certain continuation of her brand's essence and at the same time always evolving and improving her clothes. Each collection I have this feeling of "upgrade". I don't know how much time the ex Spice Girl will surprise me, but so far, I envy the Victoria Beckam's girl. Some tell that in this collection VB is giving back sexiness to her silhouettes, but I think it has always been.
There's a thing for big and kinda vintage looking buttons sine two seasons.
Have I to say something about The Row? I will keep saying the same thing every fashion week. The Olsen sisters could keep receiving criticism about a certain repetitiveness. I would just say I enjoy The Row every season as a simple climax of luxury minimalism, a soft and silky break in the middle of NY fashion week madness.
I could ask to be buried in one of their really attractive silk robes or cashmere knit to sleep forever in it.
I also liked Suno.
But again I can't help myself but notice that.
And two silhouettes from 3.1 Phillip Lim.
It's gonna be a long month of fashion week!